Have you ever wondered what it’s like to travel through Ladakh in winter? Picture frozen rivers, snow-laden villages, and the wind howling across silent valleys. After completing the iconic Chadar Trek, I knew I wasn’t done with this remote wonderland just yet. I craved more. That’s when Nubra Valley and the legendary Khardung La Pass entered the picture—remote, silent, and hauntingly beautiful in the dead of winter.
Why I Chose to Travel Ladakh in Winter
Most people flock to Ladakh in the summer months when roads are open, the skies are clear, and the sun warms the stark mountains. But I wanted a different experience—one that tested me, one that very few get to see. Winter in Ladakh strips the landscape down to its raw, bone-white soul. The cold isn’t just a number; it’s a constant companion. At -30°C, you learn to respect nature deeply. And that’s exactly why I chose to explore Nubra Valley during winter—to witness Ladakh at its purest.
Inner Line Permits and Finding a Way In
To visit places like Nubra Valley and Pangong Lake, Indian citizens need an Inner Line Permit (ILP), which can be applied online or through local travel agents in Leh. Foreign nationals require a Protected Area Permit and must be in groups of at least two. I was fortunate—my companion was a Ladakhi local, which made the journey smoother. But for travelers planning a winter trip to Ladakh, do check road accessibility, weather reports, and permit requirements in advance. In winter, nothing is guaranteed.
The Road to Nubra Valley: A Journey Into Ice and Silence
We started from Leh early in the morning, bundled in layers and anticipation. The shared jeep cost us ₹1500 per head. While the distance to Nubra Valley is only about 150 km, the snow and ice made every kilometer a challenge. The route crosses Khardung La Pass, one of the highest motorable roads in the world at 5,359 meters (17,582 ft). The higher we climbed, the whiter everything became. Trucks skidded slowly, icicles hung from rock faces, and prayer flags fluttered defiantly in the cold.
Old Bollywood songs played from the driver’s stereo, a nostalgic soundtrack to one of the most surreal drives of my life. With each turn, the Ladakh in Winter grew more intense—harsh, beautiful, and utterly captivating.
Khardung Village: A Snowy Oasis
Before reaching the top of Khardung La, we stopped at Khardung Village, a sleepy settlement surrounded by thick snow. This place felt like a scene from a movie—wooden homes with smoke curling out of chimneys, kids playing in the snow, and an elderly woman serving hot Maggi and chai at a roadside dhaba. That cup of chai, hands wrapped tightly around it, tasted like heaven.
Winter in Ladakh isn’t just about the views—it’s about these small moments that warm your soul when everything around is frozen.
Reaching Diskit: The Heart of Nubra Valley
We arrived in Diskit, the administrative center of Nubra Valley, in the late afternoon. Most guesthouses and hotels were shut tight for winter, and even the locals were surprised to see travelers in February. For hours, we knocked on doors and asked around. Just when we were about to give up, a kind monk from Diskit Monastery came to our rescue.
He offered us a room near the monastery—basic, but with thick blankets and access to hot water (a rare luxury in winter Ladakh). That night, wrapped in three layers of wool, I fell asleep listening to the wind howling through the valley, grateful for warmth and human kindness.
Exploring Diskit Monastery in the Snow
The next morning, we explored the Diskit Monastery, which stands tall over the Nubra Valley. This 600-year-old gompa looked even more mystical blanketed in snow. We lit a butter lamp inside the prayer hall, joining monks in their chants. The view from the top was unreal—white mountains stretching to the horizon, and the Shyok River flowing like a silver ribbon through the valley.
From up here, winter in Nubra Valley felt like a timeless painting—silent, sacred, and unforgettable.
Unexpected Tea with a Monk
Later that day, we visited Lamdon Charitable School, supported by the Dalai Lama, to learn more about education in remote Ladakh. A young monk invited us to his room for tea. Over steaming cups and glucose biscuits, he shared stories of life as a monk, and how he blended traditional values with modern tools—he had a TV, a radio, and a curious sense of humor.
“Who says monks can’t enjoy life?” he smiled.
That moment stuck with me. Even in the harshest winters, Ladakh is full of warmth—not just in fireplaces, but in its people.
The Ultimate Challenge: Reaching Khardung La Pass in Winter
The final leg of our journey took us back up to Khardung La Pass. My stomach was uneasy (pro tip: don’t eat heavy daal the night before a high-altitude drive), but I wasn’t about to miss the chance.
As we climbed, the temperature dropped to -25°C. Breathing became difficult. My water bottle froze solid. Yet when we finally reached the top, everything felt worth it. At that height, surrounded by towering snowbanks and colorful prayer flags, time stood still.
There’s a sign at Khardung La that says, “You are closer to the heavens.” In that moment, I believed it.
“Make sure to check the official Ladakh tourism website for the latest travel advisories.”
“Apply for your Inner Line Permit online through the ILP portal before visiting Nubra Valley.”
Final Thoughts: Why You Should Visit Ladakh in Winter
Ladakh in Winter is not for everyone. It’s cold, unpredictable, and demanding. But for those who brave the chill, it offers an unmatched experience. Nubra Valley in winter is quiet and untouched, a world away from the summer crowds. You’ll find solitude, adventure, and stories that stay with you long after the snow melts.
Whether it’s sipping chai in Khardung Village, seeking shelter in Diskit, or standing breathless atop Khardung La Pass, winter in Ladakh taught me that the coldest places can hold the warmest memories.
Further Reading
- India Travel Checklist: What I Packed for My 3-Month Solo Trip
- Top 5 Monasteries to Explore in Nubra Valley
- Tips for Surviving -30°C in Ladakh
Have You Experienced Ladakh in Winter?
Do you dream of visiting Nubra Valley or crossing Khardung La Pass in the snow? Or have you already been there? Share your winter travel stories and tips in the comments!
